Petzl Nomic and Petzl Ergo comments.

As much as I like the Nomic I climbed all of last winter in North America with the new Ergo. And for the most part loved every minute of it. We had the earliest ice and some of the latest ice I have ever seen..



For everything I got on the Ergo was big fun. Even easier to climb with on steep terrain than the original Nomic. With a single exception.



There were a few times (OK be honest more than a few) that I was flagging on. I was getting tired. When that happens I get sloppy. Or it was just really cold. I get sloppy then too.







Somewhere we were soloing easy terrain and I was both cold and tired. And I had big gloves on. When all that happens with a pair of Nomic I now realise that I will often drop my little finger (and sometimes even my ring finger)out of the grip and let them hangbelow the rotation point on the tool.



But let me back up a bit here. Petzl has gone to great lengths to add a serrated stainless blade to the pommel of the newest tools. With varying levels of success mind you over two seasons. But what we have now allows you to use the Nomic or Ergo on moderate terrain easier and just as importantly (may be more so) add some stability to the tool on steep ice after a pick stick.



Call the serrated blade in the pommel a good thing. Except when it is not.





New Ergo on the left with theolder style and smooth pommel piece



New Nomic and the new serrated pommel on the right

I and many others have used the originalNomic in alpine terrain to good effect. You adapt and use the tool differently on moderate terrain. But the serrated pommel allows even more use of the Nomic in the mtns. The pommelchange is an improvement in normal conditions.



But on technical ground not so much in a verylimited circumstance. Here is why I think so. Even if I don't drop a finger out of the grip, I want as much rotation from the tool as possible. One reason I think the Fusion is an inferior tool for most in comparison to the Nomic. The spike of the Fusion and the serrated blade on the Nomic will eventually limit the rotation of the tool in the palm of your hand.



I might accept that in the Nomic and have with the newest tools and while climbing with the new Fusion and the spike attached.. But on the Ergo...not so much. Changing picks today on my Ergos I got to thinking..."the Ergo would be a better tool for me on really difficult climbing with the older,smooth and non serrated pommel". Easy change. Now if I drop a finger or two I won't mutilate them at the end of the swing. The stainless serrated pommel will do that and shred a pair of gloves as well if theyget between your finger and the ice.



That experiencecan be painful and indelible.

Easy answer? "Does that hurt?" "Then stop doing *IT*!" If I worked at it Icould always keep my hands and arms in the bus. But being tired comes with the game as does cold temps and big gloves. Generally if I have my Ergos out I am likely to get bit again. So I changed the pommels to the original style. Depending on what the climb is I might even change out my new Nomic's pommelsas well.



Not the typical response when looking at the old or new Petzl tools but something to think about if the parts are available. Everyone seems to wantthe new serrated pommel on their old tools. I prefer having the option of both style of pommel. And if I had to chose between the two for every condition I'd stay with the smooth, original ones. I know I'll get tired again and I won't keep my hands and arms inside the bus.



Back to the issue of the pommels themselves.



It is not like I am making this stuff up! What happened to the "old days" when a broken grip rest was the rare and onlyissue with a Nomic?



The new improved - tools just became available again recently in Europe and now here in the US and North America. Already I am getting reports in ofloosepommels.



this is typical:



"Interestingly though I've had mine for 1 month now. Bought a brand new pair at full retailas soon as they hit the shops here in Chamonix. The bottom griprest has already started to wobble on me. Pretty annoying but I was just wondering if you knew of anyone who has had the same issue?"



The answer is, yes. Theone pictured below is not the first I have heard about or seen.



photo courtesy of a CT reader



A fewfailures reportedboth loose inserts andinserts coming out early thiswinter soit is already obvious the "fix" isn't good enough. A liberal application of steel based epoxy kept my Ergos going all of last winter. Only one size grip though because of it. I'd suggest doing the same to your new tools. And I really hate adding this...as dumb as it might sound.......but be gentle with your pommels. You can imagine just how careful I am with mine when mixing and matching pommels. Which has to be analmost acertain recipe for failure until Petzl decides to do this right again.



Petzl reports the new pommel at double the last versions strength.



"How strong is the GRIPREST?



GRIPREST strength was doubled to withstand loads of 300daN."





http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0//10/12/newly-modified-versions-nomic-and-ergo-ice-axes-are-available





pommel photos courtesy of Dave Searle

San Abino Church

Nearly all of the old southwestern towns were built around a catholic church with small shops and maybe a courthouse around the church with a park or a place for festivities in the center. Old Mesilla is built around the Basilica of San Albino church which was built in 1855 and still offers mass in both English and Spanish. Originally built out of adobe it has had to be remodeled some. There is a memorial to parishioners who have died in combat in front of the church with a white statue on it.

Raccoons

We did see some of the wildlife in the area while walking along the warf in Port Angeles. Of course there are raccoons in all areas of the U.S. - or so it seems, but they are kind of cute, even if an unwanted pest most of the time. This mama coon was teaching her 2 babies how to beg behind a cafe. Not a good idea but we couldn't resist taking their photos. We, also, saw several Canadan geese flying over the water.

Steven's Pass ..

Ken and I opted to use our free passes to Steven's Pass on the last Friday of operations. The weather wasn't forecast to be great, but we were going anyway. After all, you can't be a Pacific Northwest skier without skiing in the rain at least once a year.

The first ride up the chair was cloudy, but no precip. The second ride up involved rain that turned into "Wintry Mix" near the top. By the third time up, we had that precip freezing on the outsides of our shell pants.

First chair ride up.

The snow was decent on groomed runs and corn like at times with icy patches and some thicker patches. Anything that was not groomed was heavy, wet and hard to turn in. We stuck to Hog Heaven, and Barrier Ridge for our first few runs then decided to see what the other side of the ridge was like.

We rode the Tye Mill Chair up to the top and then went down Gemini which felt like the best run of the day so far. There was no one on the backside, and the weather was somewhat better. That changed, and the wind kicked up and the rides up the Jupiter Chair had us getting blasted in the face with icy pellets. After 3-4 runs down time was running out on the backside (they close the lifts at 3:15pm) so we decided to get back on the front of the ridge.

We had a few super enjoyable runs down The Crest Trail and Skid Road before making a few last runs down Skyline as the skies turned blue and we warmed up and dried out.

Overall we had a great day. The snow was pretty good where it had been groomed, or where lots of people were skiing. We stuck to all blue runs as the black diamonds were not groomed and not too many people were skiing them. The snow in those areas was not appealing, and neither Ken nor I were looking to get injured on our last day of lift served skiing this season.

Last chair of day.

Friends

Stormy and the dogs are friends.See more photos of the dogs at my other blog - the puppy tale - at blogspot.com (for some reason the link refused to come up here. It is in the labels below)

Taking Down Sunflowers

My neighbor had a huge bunch of wild sunflowers in her yard that had about bloomed theirselves out. She asked my son to take them down with his tractor as it was such a big job to do by hand. So down came the sunflowers. It was even a job for the tractor. But it did displace one little cottontail rabbit. I am sure it was able to find a new home out in the desert under a sagebush.

Rain Clouds

Recently it seems like everytime I look out there are beautiful clouds in the sky. I can't take photos of all of them and this is just a few. The first one shows a curtain of rain as it moves across the desert.